As the world becomes increasingly aware of the impact of climate change, the textile industry is under scrutiny for its environmental footprint. However, there is a growing movement towards sustainable textiles, which aims to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. Recently, I had the opportunity to witness this movement firsthand while setting up an exhibition at the Nehru Centre in London. The UK INDIA DOSTI Exhibition celebrated the 75th anniversary of UK-India friendship since India gained its independence. The festival, which was sponsored under the corporate social responsibility of Steel Exchange India Limited, featured rural art and 75 women artisans from MITHILAsmita to commemorate India’s 75th Independence Anniversary. The exhibited heritage objects, textiles, jewellery, and merchandise highlighted the beauty and importance of sustainable textiles, supported by leading National museums, academic and cultural institutions and both the UK and Indian governments.
As we were putting the finishing touches on the exhibition for the opening ceremony, the chief of the security staff of TNC arrived to conduct a general review of the setup. As he examined the various handloom textiles, scarves, and jackets on display, he asked a question that many in the textile industry have been grappling with: are these textiles pure? Are they made from pure cotton and pure silk? I confidently answered in the affirmative, explaining how Khadi is hand spun and hand woven using centuries-old skills still practised by weavers and artisans in India. These fabrics are hand-embroidered, hand-block-printed, and hand-painted, as part of their ancestral practice. I was confident that this discussion would be more about introducing him to the different crafts, embroideries and textiles of India. But it turned out to be much different and basic!
The chief of security staff’s reaction both surprised and impressed me. He explained that it’s becoming increasingly rare to see pure cotton and silk fabrics these days, as everything seems to be marketed as “100% recycled”. As I thought about his comment, I reflected on my upbringing in the eastern part of India where we commonly wore dresses made from locally sourced, pure cotton fabric. It was not seen as a valuable commodity. Silk, on the other hand, was highly prized, especially if it was locally produced. It was startling to realize that even pure cotton is now considered a rare and precious find in the world of textiles. It highlights the need for a greater focus on sustainable and environmentally-friendly textile production processes.
The chief of security staff’s comment also drew my attention to the darker side of the textile industry. On one hand, cotton farmers in India are struggling to make ends meet, with many facing financial ruin and even resorting to suicide. This is despite India being one of the largest producers of cotton in the world. On the other hand, fast fashion stores, not only in London but also in India, are filled with clothing made from 100% recycled polyester or other forms of recyclable materials. However, these materials are not biodegradable, contributing to the growing problem of textile waste and pollution. These issues highlight the need for greater awareness and support for sustainable textile practices that prioritize the well-being of workers, farmers, and the environment.
During my visits to fashion malls in Delhi, I noticed that the dresses available for purchase are often made from a mixture of materials, including cotton, silk, and polyester. The term “Art Silk” has been coined to refer to fake silk materials that have little resemblance to the real thing. As a maker of exclusive bags made from silk, I am always on the lookout for similar fabrics and their sources. Unfortunately, many of these materials turn out to be plastic versions of raw silk, commonly known as “poly silk”. The prevalence of such synthetic materials in the fashion industry highlights the urgent need for sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives.
It is concerning to see the prevalence of synthetic and non-biodegradable fabrics in the fashion industry when rural weavers are producing high-quality, handmade cotton and silk fabrics daily. I often wonder why there is not enough supply of sustainable textiles, given the abundance of local supply chains and global trade networks. Unfortunately, the answer seems to lie in pricing and profit margins. Mixed recyclable fabrics are often cheaper to produce and sell than authentic, sustainable textiles. However, the impact of this fast fashion on people and the planet is significant and cannot be ignored. It is crucial for the industry to prioritize sustainable practices and support local communities and artisans who are producing high-quality, eco-friendly fabrics.
Just as all living beings originate from the soil and eventually return to it, decompose, and give rise to new life, textiles must also be sourced from and returned to the soil. It is our responsibility to prioritize the health and safety of our planet for future generations and avoid recklessness in our pursuit of trendy fashion. While it may not be possible to completely eliminate the use of recycled materials, we can certainly take steps to minimize it. By embracing sustainable practices and investing in eco-friendly textiles, we can reduce our impact on the environment and promote a more responsible fashion industry.
Have you ever heard of a hand-embroidered shirt or dress being thrown away? Have you heard of a hand-painted scarf going out of style? The older these items are, the more precious they become. I cherish a hand-painted Madhubani silk sari that my mother received from my grandmother 30 years ago, and I plan to pass it on to my daughter. Handmade items are rarely discarded and therefore have a lower environmental impact. While they may be more expensive, their long-term impact and beauty make them invaluable. We must consider the true cost of the products we consume and prioritize investing in sustainable, timeless pieces that will last for years to come.
Sustainable practices need to be an integral part of an organization’s DNA, and it’s crucial for decision-makers to take strategic steps towards achieving sustainability. It’s disheartening to see big fashion houses prioritize profits over ethical practices and disregard their responsibilities towards society and the environment. At MITHILAsmita, choosing pure cotton and silk is a cornerstone of our organizational strategy, whether we’re producing corporate gifts, government merchandise, or museum souvenirs. We source our materials from local farmers and use natural silks like Mulberry silk, traditional Bhagalpuri Tasser silk, Bangalore silk and raw silk, etc. Our fabrics are not only breathable and comfortable but also safe for the planet. After attending a Sustainable fashion entrepreneurship program by UN WOMEN and The Do School, MITHILAsmita has expanded its sustainability efforts beyond the use of sustainable materials to include upcycling textile waste into small merchandise like eye masks and bookmarks, addressing multiple UN SDGs. But, one organization or a few individuals’ efforts are not enough to combat the challenges posed by the fashion industry to the environment and climate. We need collective and systemic action.
Consumers have a significant role to play in this shift towards sustainable fashion. By choosing to buy from brands that prioritize the use of indigenous, biodegradable textiles, consumers can encourage more sustainable practices in the industry. Consumers need to have a choice, and the market needs to offer more sustainable brands that promote textiles with origins from mother earth. Together, we can work towards a future where fashion is both beautiful and responsible.
Originally Published on LinkedIn / May 7, 2023 / Ihitashri Shandilya